Thursday Island to Gove

We left Thurday Island and decided to sail to Gove for a look instead of straight through to Darwin. First night the wind was strong with 4 metre swells so we reefed the sails and carried on. About midnight (of course!) I noticed a clang clang noise after a particularly big slide down a swell and found the satellite pole support had come free. Woke everyone up and we hove to and tied it up temporarily. we then took the main sail down altogether and fully reefed the genoa so as to continue at a slower rate. After all that everything was fine. In the morning all had calmed down and we had a few slow days and night to Gove. A fabulous golden syrup coloured moon made the night watches very easy and beautiful. Got in at 10.20 and went ashore for a look around. First thing we saw was a large crocodile trap on the beach just between the mangroves and the Boat Club! We checked out the facilities"" and came back for the boat to get the laundry. Pete and I had a lost afternoon in the bar waiting for the washing to wash and dry! We had to pay $100 deposit for the laundry key! Obviously people sail off with them regularly....There seemed to be a number of just abandoned, sunken or nearly wrecked boats in the harbour,,,,I noticed a sign at the boat club saying that they were intending to tidy up the foreshore. the red dust everywhere is bauxite, apparently this is the largest bauxite deposit in the world but unfortunately the smelter closed last year and lost the town 1000 jobs. Probably labour costs -  the cooks and cleaners in these sorts of places get paid hundreds of thousands a year!! Today as soon as I have finished this we sail for Darwin. About 3 days we are planning it will take. I'll label the pictures then as the website is paying up again and won't let me.....

Cooktown to Thursday Island

Didn't go to Low Woody isles in the end. the local that told us all about he millions of mud crabs and the friendly croc that "wouldn't bother you"  neglected to say that it was entirely in a no fish zone! So in the interests of keeping the boat we sailed on.... to Cape Flattery. It was an interesting spot and we went ashore to look at the rocks and saw lots of lobster shells that "something" had eaten. Maybe we're being a bit paranoid about crocs but there you go. Good anchorage for the night. it's been surprisingly cold and windy for FNQ (Far North Queensland). Next day 21 July we went to Lizard Island. This is where Captain Cook climbed to look for a break in the reef to get him out. We also climbed the same hill, and I mean climbed, it was very steep over straight up and down rocks. I gave in to an old skiing knee injury whinging at me about half an hour from the top but Heroic Huw and Persistent Pete carried on and saw Cooks Passage from the  top. Huw has climbed Mont Blanc and said it was a bit hard! that made me feel better...the next day with aching muscles we sailed for Howick Island. We caught a mackerel and had that for sashimi then dinner. Next couple of days we went past Cape Melville the ndicided to night sail up through Lads Passage (OK I know, I know). Lots of shipping through here , freighters and even the Navy to avoid.. We went into Lloyds Bay and found a tear in the main sail and two loose battens that we tried to fix prior to getting to Darwin for a proper fix. Portland Road (pronounced Roads for some reason) was next. nothing much there but for some very pricey ($?) and remote real estate. We got to Margaret Bay and caught a blue fin tuna just as we arrived so more sashimi and dinner again!. Once there we put out some lines and caught sharks! Both we let go, a 3 and 3 m plus! the last one gave Huw a run or two around the boat for half an hour! We drank a toast to the sharks - Pete and I on wine  and Huw on Richard's remaining single malt. After this we sailed for Shallow Bay for the night then the run to Thursday Island. We were all quite excited about arriving at Thursday Island - don't really know why - But it was a big disappointment, Really horrible anchorage with big wind and huge current and a lee shore!! Why did they ever decide this was a good place to put a port?? Pete stayed with the boat because of the position and Huw and I went ashore to see quarantine re taking food from somewhere to Darwin... It was a bit vague. We were underwhelmed with the town. There was a tree that if you ate a fruit from it meant that you would return ( we made sure not to eat one!) After a soaking wet ghastly uncomfortable trip back to the boat  we up anchored and  went to Horn island across he way for a more comfortable night. Going tomorrow for Gove Harbour.

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Cook Town

Left the Low Isles early and sailed to Hope Island where we anchored in the lagoon overnight. It was cold and windy so we didn't even go ashore. From there the next morning to Cook Town. the weather was a bit rough with the wind directly behind and a bit too much for the whisker pole although we tried. Cook Town is predictably all about Captain Cook! Monuments, museum etc. We had drinks at the Captain Cook Hotel. We are staying her another day as there looks like a storm out to sea. We're anchored in the Endeavour River where Cook came to make repairs to his boat while he was trying to find a way out of the reef. it's surprisingly cold for so far north - a result of the general cold snap all over Queensland I think. Anyway we're spending the time finishing off installing a salt water  tap in the galley to save fresh water when rinsing dishes. As you can see I have failed completely to get the GoPro videos up so far! Maybe today....

Port Douglas

Left Cairns yesterday morning for Port Douglas but decided to stay overnight at the Low Isles just off. Very pretty little island with a light house. While we were sailing yesterday Huw made a whisker pole out of some bamboo from Paul and Glenys' land. It worked really well enabling us to sail quite fast downwind so now we're ringing riggers in Port Douglas to get a proper one made up. We'd have been happy to keep our home made one - but imagine customs! We'd have to ditch it each country and make a new one!

Ignore all that bit about getting a whisper pole in Port D - they haven't got the bits! So instead we looked out the back and thought - snorkelling? Then 2 big Lagoon charter boats turned up with people in wet suits so in we went. It was amazing coral and fish everywhere - hard to know where to go and where to look. Every fish and type of coral you've ever seen in a tank or tourist brochure was there. Huge clams, reef sharks Warm water, sunny day, top visibility etc. Awesome. We're going back in after lunch from the back of the boat in the deeper water to see different fish. I'm going to dedicate the rest of the afternoon to trying to get the GoPro videos onto Youtube for putting on here. Hmmmm, we'll see how how successful I am..

Cairns

We're now in Cairns. The trip up from Bowen was good. Some great sailing but Laura was not well with sea sickness. Magnetic Island was much changed from when most of us were last there - no surprises it's been many years. We had a bit of a lost afternoon at "Sandi's" at Horseshoe Bay! Sailed to Orpheus Is on the way to Hinchenbrook Is. The east side of Hinchenbrook was not an option because of easterlies and unfortunately that is when the walks etc are. The only spot to go ashore on the west had Huw and Laura hurrying back when they say the crocodile warning signs! We put out crab pots successfully but the mangroves did look very crocodiley......From there we went to Dunk Island where the resort had been savaged by cyclone Yasi last year but was still operating some water sports by the look of it. We then sailed to Mourilyn Harbour where we picked up Pete's brother Paul and his wife Glenys. They came with us to Fitzroy Island just off Cairns. Poor Glenys was sea sick a bit but recovered the next day for the trip into Cairns. Pete and I stayed with them at their place in Woopen Creek and the next day Paul took us around looking at all the places they grew up around Mirriwinni.  Now we are spending money at the chandlery and doing jobs on board for a few days before we leave. All very impressed with Cairns - although I think the summer would be far too hot! Laura has decided that the sailing life is not for her and will leave the boat here in Cairns but may join us in Cape Town for a bit.

The world's largest sailing catamaran has just come in...."Hemisphere" Google it - it's huge. We're second in on the right - it's the big thing at the end. 44 metres long!

Bowen - Hinchenbrook

Left Bowen and day sailed via Cape Upstart and Cape Bowling Green  to Magnetic Island (the island that messed up Captain Cook's compass back in 1770). Not sure why but ours was OK......Stayed the night and Pete and I took the local bus round the island and ended up at Sandi's bar and restaurant for the afternoon! Left the next day and sailed to Orpheus Island for the night. Huw hooked a mahi-mahi but it got away.The Hinchenbrook channel and Island are our next stops. World Heritage listed and will be very pristine. Lots of mangroves so potentially mud crabs - and crocs too.!!

In Bowan getting some supplies and haircuts etc. The movie "Australia" was filmed here a few years ago. The Marina has lent us a car so we're going to have a look around the beaches here today. Decided to stay an extra day and let the weather settle down then continue to Magnetic Island. Really great seafood here thanks to the local fishing industry and friendly people. Had lunch yesterday at the yacht club.

Whitsundays

We only went to Gulnare Inlet at the southern end of Whitsunday Island so we have some internet. By request -  I have changed the slide shows and the gallery on this site so you can click through rather than it doing it automatically. I'll get the hang of it all eventually! There's a lot of wind, even in here so outside must be pretty rough! We'll stay put for a bit. Last night we had a party for Katrina who turned 60 last week (yes, I know, I'm next!) Richard brought up some silly fake moustaches and crazy glasses for Katrina. She ended up looking like Dame Edna and Sir Les combined, I looked like that ghastly Jason King who lay around in his sunken lounge in a kaftan with a gold medallion snuggled in his chest hair, Laura was a cross between Peter Frampton, Robert Plant and Jimmy Page. Huw was the slimy private detective from Something about Mary. Pete and Richard already have moustaches so no change there. It was fun. While we were having all this fun we forgot the crab pot off the stern and when we did pull it up something large and snipped off the whole bait container and made off with it! So there's a crab down there now with a catch by date on it....

Whitsundays

Well, here we are in Hamilton Island Marina. We stayed a couple of days at Long Island then made way to Airlie Beach for provisioning and to find that Gina And Rod were too bogged down with work commitments to come out with us. A real pity. They say they'll join us in the Carribean instead! We left Airlie's Abell Point Marina (a very busy, fun marina with good facilities) on Thursday 11 June after calling Rupert for his birthday. We had planned to stop at Hook Island's Nara Inlet, which with hindsight would have been a good idea, but continued on to Butterfly Bay at the northern tip of the island. it was sheltered but huge wind bullets came down the mountain behind us making for a very buffeted lumpy night. Anyway despite some rain and bluster we snorkelled at the Pinnacles and Maureen Bay. We then came south to Nara Inlet which was beautiful and protected. We kayaked all around and spent a couple of days there. We all went to look at the Aboringinal rock art in a cave.  Next was Macona Inlet, again a beautiful spot with great vegetation, interesting rocks and noisy cockatoos. We moved to Sawmill Bay in Cid Harbour on Thursday for the night. Laura and Huw did the walk to Whitsunday Peak but it was too cloudy to see much. Pete and I walked the short track to Dugong Beach and back. A lovely well maintained track.  We motored from there to Hamilton Island yesterday to pick up Richard and Katrina who fly in from Sydney in a few hours to have 5 days with us. So, no more till next Thursday when we get back in range. It's amazing how close to the coast of mainland Australia we are but cut off from all usual phone and internet - character forming probably, some would say......

Left Brampton as planned and arrived at Thomas Island that afternoon. Good spot to shelter from some strongish south eaterlies.  Stayed there two nights and left for Shaw Island on Sunday, one night there then on to Happy Bay on Long Island on Monday morning. Arrived to find that the resort there is closed too...! anyway we have a nice anchorage and may stay a few days till we go round to Airlie Beach to pick up Rod and Gina for a few days sailing. The weather hasn't been great but the sailing has and we've made good travelling time. It hasn't stopped us eating well and relaxing. Been out of internet till now so a bit slow with the newer photos - sorry.

Left Mackay on Wednesday 3rd June. Wonderful sail to Brampton Island. Everything working well and the boat sailing the best it ever has. Better balanced, (we redistributed the wine stocks!) and new standing rigging is paying off. While here we explored the abandoned resort. Lots of stories as to what happened but basically it changed hands and the staff walked off and it has been completely left to nature - about 3 years ago. All the rooms are still furnished, the tennis courts have racquets and balls just lying there (Huw and Laura had a game) and we played pool on the left behind tables. Apparently even the mini bars were still stocked - but I imagine that did not last long. It was all a bit depressing really seeing all that infrastructure just going to waste. I'll put some pics up tonight.  Huw and Laura walked to the top of the island and Pete and I checked out the oysters. We leave for Thomas Island on Friday.

Monday 1 June

Still in Mackay waiting for electrical work to be finished but we've had plenty to do. Pete's sister Kerry flew up especially to say goodbye and bring her partner Dave to the boat. We all met up with Gina and Rod at the famous Eimeo Hotel for lunch on Sunday. Great views over the southern Whitsunday Islands and good food. (see the pics) Pete and I worked out a good quick release system for the life raft. Gina has organised some press coverage for Laura's magazine articles. We're hoping to leave for Brampton Island in the next day or so to start the Island hopping around the Whitsundays........

Thursday 28th May

Still in Mackay with electricians all over the boat...Huw's Laura arrived from Melbourne on Tuesday to join the trip. She is a travel writer and blogger who has just walked the entire length of New Zealand - The Te Araroa Trail and her story featured in the Great Walks magazine and The Australian Geographic due out in September.  She's also a very experienced scuba diver and is looking forward to the Whitsundays - as we all are. Huw and Pete have been servicing wenches Oops typo, I mean winches!

Moreton Island - Sat 16 May

Decided to stay put till Sunday waiting for the weather, Few jobs to do - like fixing  leaking toilet... (Huw and Pete!) The sliding door was banging back and forth so until Pete fixed it I rigged up my patented door stop - see the gallery!

Sunday 24 May

Sitting in the Mackay Marina with howling wind and rain! Glad we're not out sailing in it. This week is a make and mend one. The new solar panels get wired up, winches get serviced etc. It will give the weather a chance to change too hopefully by the weekend for a couple of day sails or an overnighter to local islands.

Friday 22 May

We arrived late evening into Mackay Marina after a whole days sail from Middle Percy Island. We had a fantastic couple of days there including catching probably the biggest mud crab I have ever seen. Pete put his fishing knife into the bucket to manoeuver it around and it snapped it in half with one claw! Fed three of us for lunch, (see the photos). While we were there we were invited to the "Shack" for freshly caught goat stew along with the other people anchored in the bay. . Bit of a big night, Huw was very slow the next day (rum!) The "Shack" is where boat people have left memorabilia for many, many years and it's current custodians are Marty and Jane. (see photos) A fascinating place and a good spot to arrive in after one rough night sail from Moreton and a couple of gusty days. We left a memento of a broken winch handle with Chat Eau Bleu etched on it and a limerick I wrote on a wine bladder. (in keeping with the "Shack" spirit.)

Moreton Island - 13 May

Left as planned (well at least the second plan!) around 1.00 pm and had a great sail over to the island. Got to the Wrecks by Tangalooma just on nightfall and then it got interesting.......we found a good place to anchor - not another soul or boat there - dropped the anchor which stopped at 25 feet (in 27 feet of water) ???!!! Huw and Pete managed to get more chain and rope out but then it all went out 200 feet of it....then it wouldn't come back up....except by hand - then the winch thingy jammed, seems that some micro wire on a micro switch in the remote broke,  by then we had drifted but nevertheless were firmly anchored in the channel for the Moreton Island barge which thankfully doesn't run at night, so there we stayed. The next morning bright and early with the first light( after anchor watch rosters all night in high winds and rough sea) Pete managed to create a switch out of something and we got the anchor up and moved to where we wanted to be the previous night!

Moreton Island May 14

Lovely sunny day in a quiet spot - no one else here. Huw's been for a swim and life is looking like it should be......what's for lunch, when shall we snorkel, is it too soon for a drink......? We'll probably stay here a couple of days and let a high wind warning go away. I'll put some pics up.

Plans delayed. 

We've had last minute problems with the iridium satellite and a late VH installation so now leaving at 10 am Wednesday 13! At least it gave us time to do some extra provisioning - the best meat in the world from Maestro Meats in Annerley- and lots of fruit and vegies too.

Still planning to leave on the 9th May. Will start this blog from then if I am successful at getting it going! Please someone write something so I know.....